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Keeping your home and your neighborhood safe is central to being an independent man in a sovereign land.
I’ve installed lots of camera security systems over the years, in homes and businesses, and lately my go-to is the Reolink 16-Channel, 5-megapixel, Power over Ethernet, Eight-camera Security System. In addition to hundreds of great ratings on Amazon, this system has a perfect spread of features and avoids things that made all the other systems I’ve installed in the past such a pain in the neck.
Let’s go back in time for a minute, to the days when cameras had a boatload of wires for video and audio and power. Most did work, but they were low-resolution, and they were a giant pain in the ass to install. A few years ago, wireless security camera systems became fashionable, but they often lose signal and they’re sometimes tricky to configure. They’re a good product. I use them, but more as a temporary solution than a permanent one.
Fortunately, technology evolved to combine video, audio, and power into one Cat6 computer cable called Power over Ethernet (PoE). One network cable does it all with a single connection. No complicated configurations. All eight cameras are attached to one network video recorder that comes with the system. The camera streams are recorded on a loop to an internal 3TB hard drive, which is about a week’s worth of video per camera, depending on your settings.
HERE’S WHAT YOU GET:
- (8) wired, 5-megapixel, PoE, indoor / outdoor cameras
- Network video recorder (NVR) with a power supply, mouse, and an HDMI cable that connects the box to a standard flatscreen HDTV for viewing
- 3- foot Ethernet cable to connect the video recorder to the Internet or another computer (if you want to)
- (8) 60-foot Cat6 cables to connect the cameras to the video recorder
- (8) plastic caps, which allow you to weatherproof the connection between the cable and the cameras
- (8) screw packs with anchors, to mount the cameras to just about any surface
- Templates to align the screw holes for mounting your cameras
- And lastly, some 24-hour video surveillance stickers. Think of these as a warning to criminals, should they be interested in reading the signs.
The cameras have a similar form factor to earlier types. They’re mostly metal, solidly built, and they have infrared LEDs around the lens for night vision. A cable in the back splits into three branches, each with a specific function. There’s a Cat6 connector to send video to the network video recorder (from which it also receives power); there’s a button you can press for a hard reset; and there’s a 12-volt DC connector for a supplementary power supply when a camera is too far from the base to use the PoE, or if there’s an additional piece of hardware between the camera and the NVR that interrupts transmission of power through the network cable.
The system doesn’t come with a monitor, and you will need one to configure the software. I typically attach a VGA computer monitor and a set of speakers when I install these systems. Most of the time I also use the HDMI cable that’s included to send the NVR feed to an HDTV screen. That way the property owner can view all of their camera angles at once by switching the input on their TV.
ASSEMBLING THE SYSTEM
The network video recorder looks small but it has a lot of connectivity. All of the ports are labeled and everything clicks together in a few minutes.
- (16) PoE ports. They power the cameras and allow the recorder to receive video. The system comes with eight cameras but you can add up to eight more.
- LAN port to connect the system to the Internet or to another computer
- eSATA port for an external hard drive (up to 4TB). It’s a bit of an unusual connector these days, but those drives hold a lot of footage and it’s a fast connection.
- VGA port for a computer monitor
- HDMI port for an HDTV set
- USB port for the mouse
- RCA port for external speakers
- DC connector for the power supply
PRO-TIP: Connect the cameras in a tabletop setup to make sure everything is working. It’s easier to troubleshoot problems when the system is right in front of you.
Once the power is flipped on, it takes about 30 seconds for the system to initialize. The mouse lights up, lights start flashing on the camera ports, and the cameras will produce an image.
The setup wizard pops up at this point to walk you through creating an account and configuring the system for the way you want to use it. You can take care of that right away or do it later. A piece of advice from Captain Obvious: If you choose to connect a security system to the Internet, use strong passwords and take the necessary precautions to protect yourself.
POSITIONING THE CAMERAS
The most challenging part of the installation is determining where to place the cameras, so let’s go over that in a little more detail.
Choosing where to hang the cameras will have a lot to do with the overall success of this system or any security imaging endeavor. You want to get coverage that’s high and wide enough to see what happens, but low enough to be able to identify faces, and potentially catch other details like license plates. The goal is to collect sufficient evidence to track down the perpetrators but prevent the cameras from being vandalized before they can do their job.
So how do you balance the super high angles that keep the cameras safe but only record you getting ripped off AND the cameras closer to the ground that see more but are vulnerable to damage and tampering? Think concealment and misdirection. Survey your property and determine what areas are the most likely to be targeted. Then look for places where cameras can be installed so they are hidden, or at least not easily visible. Decoy cameras help with this too. A few cameras in more obvious places will attract the criminals’ attention, and waste their time, letting the concealed cameras keep on working.
That said, it’s always good for people to see that your house has this type of security system because it usually inspires them to move onto another house. Which is sad, but sometimes making your home look and feel unfriendly to criminals is really the most you can hope to accomplish for you and your neighbors.
Speaking of neighbors, if possible, try not to point your cameras directly into your neighbor’s yard as that might not be well received privacy-wise. You might also want to chat with them about your system in the context of your efforts to deter crime in your community.
After you’ve figured out where the cameras are going, you’ll need to put some time into the how. The system comes with those 60-foot cables, but there’s nothing keeping you from getting longer CAT6 cables if you have to cover a greater distance to the NVR. Consider direct-burial cable if you need a run to an outbuilding, or a tree with a good view of the street or mailbox. Remember that you have the option of adding a supplementary power supply for the cameras if your configuration needs it.
The anchors are adequate for mounting the cameras inside and outside. If you want to attach cameras to a tougher surface like brick or concrete, you might need to get masonry bits to drill into those harder materials.
WRAP-UP
In conclusion, would I recommend the Reolink system to others? Yes, I would. It’s easy to install, configure, and operate. I have purchased this system for myself and other people, including a few who wouldn’t hesitate to get revenge if I steered them wrong.
This is a great system and definitely gets a thumbs up. Until next time, stay safe. Be prepared and I’ll see you soon.